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| Truck Reviews (15215 Posts)
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Tracker RT-Series
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On 6/29/2005
JD
wrote in from
United States
(68.160.nnn.nnn)
Gathering as much info from different sites so if you've seen the question already, my apologies.
Looking for opinions on these trucks in 139s. I've got a Loaded Pintail coming via trade from JasonFox (thanks!) and I wanna try something different from Randals since I wasn't too crazy about the 180s on my Drop Carve. Loaded recommends dual RTS -front and back, but is there a big difference between running that setup and trucks like Indies?
I don't get to hit the hills very often so this board will mainly be an all arounder - low speed carving, bert slider, neighborhood cruiser, etc. and maybe even bowl carver(maybe not so much grinding since I've been warned that the kingpin sits higher on these Trackers). I'm hoping I can ride this in the bowl(not dropping in off the pintail - it's got roll-ins ) in which case I'd like to keep the trucks on the traditional pivot side. I need to add some variety to skating the bowl on my old school pig.
On another note would anyone recommend using the RT-X front/RT-S back for the types of riding I wanna do with this board?
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unequal truck lengths
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On 6/28/2005 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
I can see the push off thing,in regards to geometry , a wider front truck would steer slower,similar to a negatively wedged truck,isn't that the opposite of what most people do to maximize traction? usually one has less steering in the back to avoid spinning out. Extra width does seem to give more traction.
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...
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On 6/28/2005
frip.51
wrote in from
Austria
(213.47.nnn.nnn)
yeah, thanks! i just got encouraged by dan gesmer via email, so i'll go out and experiment.
and of course you're completely right, when you say that "The combinations of wheels, trucks, and decks is mind-boggling, but there are certain set-ups that Rule. Finding those is a matter of keeping an open mind, and feeling out what works for you." i'll go along with the try'n'error principle...
cheers, matt
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Truck width
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On 6/28/2005 PSR
wrote in from
United States
(69.161.nnn.nnn)
Frip 51, the width issue will really only affect things badly (handling wise) if the differences are too great, Or that the deck width is too much for the truck/wheel combo. Using Duane's suggestion of (by example) Grippins up front on a 180mm truck, then Flashbacks at the rear on 160mm trucks, you'd be fine on most 'traditional' shaped boards like a big Lib-Tech or Gravity Ed Economy. However, if you put something really 'skinny' on the rear (like a Tracker Midtrac) of fat longboard like a Yardstick, you'll have some stability issues, and easily over-leverage the trucks in turns. Deck shape plays a role, as do the wheels you pick. Hopefully you'll feel that your set-up is good enough to work for you. Anytime you change stuff out, be it trucks, wheels, risers, oer even bushings, be sure to give the new combo a 'trial run' on a not-so-crazy venue, instead of just walking up the big Hill and Bombin' It. Don't be afraid to experiment a bit. The combinations of wheels, trucks, and decks is mind-boggling, but there are certain set-ups that Rule. Finding those is a matter of keeping an open mind, and feeling out what works for you.
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different trucks
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On 6/28/2005
frip.51
wrote in from
Austria
(213.47.nnn.nnn)
do you mean, that in the end the overall width stays the same, because you're using offset hubs?
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different trucks
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On 6/28/2005 duane
wrote in from
United States
(68.15.nnn.nnn)
I've ridden a 180 front and 160 rear many times with no ill effects, and also 200 front and 180 rear even more. For me, it allows a wide track without me kicking the rear wheel while taking a good push-off. It also allows me to fit hub-center wheels front and offset hubs rear, which I think gives the best speed / traction balance for high-speed carving
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two different widths
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On 6/28/2005
frip.51
wrote in from
Austria
(213.47.nnn.nnn)
Hey, i'm quite new around here and around the whole longboarding business as well, so plz excuse if i'm about to talk s#@!...
i just wonder, if a wide front-end truck, like a 180, and a narrow one, like a 130 or 150, at the tail have a bad influence on handling, or better: does it have any influence on riding in general?
i hope you guys can help me with that - so that i don't have to spend my little money for testing...
cheers, matt
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Orions
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On 6/24/2005
Steve in AZ
wrote in from
United States
(130.13.nnn.nnn)
It all depends if you got the Orion "low" or the Orion Superiors.
Orion Sups have the SAME geometry as the RTX or the Axis trucks. The old B-2's or B*52's utilized the same stable pivot as the RTS or Dart trucks.
I agree that on a longboard, the turnier Orions are a better deal than the B-2's. The best combo would have been the Orion Superior Front and the same width Tracker Dart in back, similar to a slalom set-up.
I've got more than a few boards running that same combo, and they all feel great.
-=S=-
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Orion Trucks
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On 6/24/2005 w
wrote in from
United States
(66.25.nnn.nnn)
Orion is made by Tracker. they are just as good if not better than most trackers (i prefer the geometry of orions over most trackers).
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Like I was saying
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On 6/24/2005
AP
wrote in from
United States
(207.114.nnn.nnn)
The one pair I've had, I didn't like. The axles was drilled wrong. They Felt like cheap trucks. But they may have gotten better. I just stick with Indy.
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Orion Trucks
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On 6/24/2005 AP
wrote in from
United States
(207.114.nnn.nnn)
The one pair of Orion Trucks sucked.
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Orion Trucks??
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On 6/24/2005
Morris
wrote in from
United States
(70.19.nnn.nnn)
I just received a complete that I ordered from Gravity. I wanted a board to learn to slide and this seemed like a good way to go.
--36" team model
HARDWARE Trucks: Tracker B2 149mm
Bearings: Gravity ABEC5 Risers: Gravity 3/8" Lightweight
Wheels: Gravity 62mm Wood: 7 Ply Hardrock Maple
SPECS L:36.50" W:9.10 N:7.10" T:7.50" WB:17.50
ANYWAY,
I just took it out of the box and noticed that the trucks were not the "Tracker B2 149mm" like was described on the website. Instead the trucks that came on the board are called "Orion".
Is this something I should be worried about? Are Orion trucks any good? I did a search in "truck reviews" on this site and did not find much. I really don't know how the trucks (Orion or Tracker) are supposed to perform really as all I've ever used are Randals.
I have not yet tried the board out.
Should I talk to the folks at Gravity about this?
Thanks,
Morris
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oh yeah, the ball joints.
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On 6/21/2005 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
i see the threading at both ends, perhaps they just don't have enough smooth kingpin overlapping with the baseplate metal. if you really wanted to avoid stressing the threaded part of the kingpin in the base, you need a tight fit between the smooth part of the kingpin and the baseplate if the fit isn't tight the stresses just transfer down to the start of the threads,slightly less leveraged but still there. If you make the fit between the kingpin and the base tight ,it's gonna be hard to turn the kingpin, tightening and loosening will be hard. So, the base could be designed to clamp the kingpin, a pinch bolt that can be loosened to remove the kingpin and retightened when the bolt is installed. Extra production steps and raising the ,already steep, price.ouch.
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here we go again
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On 6/19/2005 vaitus
wrote in from
United States
(24.225.nnn.nnn)
the Australian version of Carver trucks?
http://www.smoothstar.com.au/index.htm
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Threading at Both ends
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On 6/19/2005 PSR
wrote in from
United States
(69.161.nnn.nnn)
Herbn, what Radikal ended up doing, due to the snug fit of the pivot (and also, methinks, also to fit Fat bushings) is thread both ends of the kingpin. This lets you change bushings quickly without having to pull the hanger. The design also gets the kinpin out of the way when you want to pull the hanger. Tensioning, such as we're normally used to, against the bushings via the kingpin's locknut, isn't anywhere near as powerful, nor is the range of adjustment very great. You are supposed to pick the bushings to suit (Katii, BLUE at the rear, not Green!) your riding style, weight, etc. Since the bushing selection is consistent, and has a broad range, I can easily see the logic in it. There's still the issue, in my mind, that the kingpins ever failed under lightweight riders... Heft and Power, sure, stuff can go awry when forced. That design issue has been fixed, at least for now, with the better threading and better choice of kingpin metal. I still think there are other means of putting the package together in terms of material choices, machining, and in designing for the stresses involved. However, I doubt anyone has modeled this kind of motion/repetition on a computer (or otherwise, by old-fashioned math), so mark and Radikal ended up doing the NASA kind of thing, going where other's haven't yet gone. At least Radikal understands the differences between Metric and US Standard measuring systems.. Mars control, we have lost another probe...
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hold on a second
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On 6/19/2005 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(205.188.nnn.nnn)
the kingpin screws into the baseplate! what is this ,1975? threads sunk into the baseplate should work ,if there was room for at least a half inch of unthreaded kingpin, but that doesn't seem likely. a slightly taller baseplate could hold a conventional kingpin. I have made kingpin holders where the kingpin threads into the metal of the baseplate,i've always put the threads deep in the base with lots of smooth kingpin taking the stresses,my bases have a floating kingpin holder and i have definitely had the kingpin thread through and milled it of at an angle after it was locked in place. Also the baseplate clamps on the kingpin,which will bind up the "baseplate threads" and keep the king pin from unscrewing.
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Little wrenches
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On 6/18/2005
JBH
wrote in from
United States
(24.107.nnn.nnn)
I agree with Chaput. Make sure the kingpin is in all the way. Get yourself a little combo wrench and check the kingpin every time you skate. It takes 10 seconds, tops. I got my wrench from AutoZone for less than five bucks. It's a slim little thing that takes up almost no space in a bag or tool kit, but it's really handy.
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Gettin' Loose
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On 6/18/2005
Chris Chaput
wrote in from
United States
(66.116.nnn.nnn)
It sounds as if keeping all of the threads on the kingpin and all of the threads on the baseplate below the surface (where the bottom cushion contacts the baseplate) is preventing the kingpins fron breaking.
It may be worth mentioning that you have to be careful when loosening your trucks. One time when I was attempting to loosen the locknut with a 9/16" box wrench, I noticed that the kingpin was spinning instead. At the time, I didn't have the little 9/32" wrench to properly hold or tighten the kingpin in place. I remember thinking, "No biggy, the truck is looser and I still have enough of the threads engaged" and so I ran the truck that way. I probably wouldn't have even noticed had I used a deep socket or a skatekey because those wrenches hide the end of the kingpin so you can't see it turning.
My advice is to make sure that you have both a 9/32" wrench and either an open end or box 9/16" wrench in the bag. The 9/32" is used to make sure that kingpin is snugged into place and doesn't loosen when you loosen the locknut. With an open end or box wrench, even if you don't have the 9/32" wrench you can at leats see whether or not the kingpin backed out. If all you have is a skatekey or a socket style wrench, count how many threads you can see before loosening your trucks, and afterward check to make sure that there are fewer threads showing.
If your kingpin spins out of the baseplate a bit, you might find yourself back in the situation where the exposed threads can compromise the longevity of the kingpin.
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Well, that....
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On 6/17/2005 Chris B
wrote in from
United States
(68.60.nnn.nnn)
...and they're just damn purdy too...
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Chiming in one last time on the Rad pin
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On 6/17/2005 Chris B
wrote in from
United States
(68.60.nnn.nnn)
Sparky verified that my broken pin was from a very old model Rad that didnt have the SS insert or modified threads....that being said, i'm damn impressed it held up for over a year without the mods with me riding it almost every day.
It's impressive the way Radikal stands behind their products....and it's the one of the only companies in this industry where you can call and actually talk to the guys making your gear....
It's another reason they're at the top of the game
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Radikal Kingpin Stuff
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On 6/16/2005 Paul Howard
wrote in from
United States
(64.5.nnn.nnn)
Hey BOBBY M. and SPARKY, Good to know, Thanks for the info. -Paul
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Fury
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On 6/16/2005 Mercury
wrote in from
United States
(208.59.nnn.nnn)
Too bad we can't get in the ol' time machine and go bust some headz at Krux. It's all their fault for inventing that cast-in wanker axle.
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PierreZ
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On 6/16/2005
Mercury
wrote in from
United States
(208.59.nnn.nnn)
Oy, Pierre, I need some new trucks too and can keep secrets better than Terrrance.
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Furys
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On 6/16/2005 Smokestack
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(81.156.nnn.nnn)
I asked Chicken if he had anything to do with the Furys, and he replied:
'Unfortunately I had everything to do with those.
I take it they weren't easy to make then! LOL
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Slalom trucks
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On 6/16/2005
pierre
wrote in from
Canada
(24.200.nnn.nnn)
Hey TK, check your email, super secret pic inside!
I'd love to race in Ma this weekend, it may happen...
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