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| Home Made Boards (6188 Posts)
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Home Made Boards |
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Haven't Posted in a while
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jake
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On 11/28/2008
australia
wrote in from
Australia
(220.233.nnn.nnn)
ahahah
good luck finding maple reasonably priced in australia (im from australia too)
for me its cheaper building carbon fibre/fibreglass boards using foam than buying maple
marine ply is an alright alternative so im told-i never used it
hoop pine is also alright-i have used it
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making a long board
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On 11/21/2008
jake
wrote in from
Australia
(124.187.nnn.nnn)
im from australia and im finding it hard to find hard maple veneer so im thinking about using marine ply instead is this suitable for strength and durability
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PICs!!
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On 10/27/2008
caddy
wrote in from
United States
(206.135.nnn.nnn)
PICs!!
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custom grip
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On 10/14/2008
Jake in Monterey
wrote in from
United States
(75.244.nnn.nnn)
what's up everybody. I'm getting back into it after a 2 year hiatus. I remember, as a grom, surfing the the forums on here and seeing some pics of some dude's rig that had just the grip tape in two oval shapes where he rode. I thought it looked super sweet and was curious to know if that's somethig i can do to a deck that comes gripped from the manufacturer or if I have to remove it/apply my own to a blank. thanks
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longboard advice
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On 10/7/2008 jeeves
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(132.185.nnn.nnn)
shortboards are longboards cut down smaller. longboards are made by moistening a shortboard then stretching it out between two bullocks in chinese factories. hope that helps, let us know how you get on with your business.
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and I am starting up my own IT company...
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On 10/4/2008 New kid on the block
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(79.78.nnn.nnn)
Now,should I go for PC or Apple?
Macs do look good...
any thoughts?
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Making a long board
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On 9/17/2008
kalikyd
wrote in from
United States
(72.199.nnn.nnn)
Hey guys, so here's the deal. Im starting a skateboarding company and I was wondering if anyone knew how to make a quality longboard. Do I need to use the same wood as they do for short boards- aka (canadain maple-7 layers)? I have been reading alot about vaccum bags. And have read a several teqniquies. Any help would be great.
Kali
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herbn
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On 9/15/2008 j
wrote in from
United States
(71.141.nnn.nnn)
dude. what happened to your leg? did you recount the injury causing event here somewhere?
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herbn, some guys do molds with a hotwire
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On 9/13/2008 some1
wrote in from
United States
(76.90.nnn.nnn)
http://users.telenet.be/Toothless/Toothless/pages/instructions/foammolds/foammolds.html
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more specificly
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On 9/13/2008 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(67.83.nnn.nnn)
a long curved rocker,it would seem to me might be very difficult to keep straight if you're carving it out of a thick block of foam.
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moldmaking
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On 9/13/2008 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(67.83.nnn.nnn)
i've reviewing the "how to" on making a mold for the thinair press. I wonder what my chances are of making a slight drop deck(rocker between the trucks)with just a bit of concave,i keep thinking about using two thinner pieces of foam. Any tips?
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what is so critical?
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On 9/13/2008 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(71.127.nnn.nnn)
i wasn't thinking about "molecules aliegning in fluid" what is the goal/reason for this complicated heat curing? I have some homemades that are around 10 years old that are absolutely perfectly straight and have stayed glued.
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Heat
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On 9/10/2008
Yan0
wrote in from
United States
(75.68.nnn.nnn)
Thanks,
I'll look into temperature ranges for the epoxies I'm using (west system 205 and 206). Though it's far more complicated, I think I'm going to try to heat with a silicon blanket incorporated into the mold. I've thought of using the space heater and foam box method, but I'd also like to use the system for skis, which I'm going to press using a Pnumatic bladder rather than a vacuum bag, leaving less surface area for the heat to penetrate - plus as the air in the bladder heats up I run the risk of over-pressing. I'm thinking MDF mold/Silicon Blanket/Aluminium sheet (with mold release)/Layup. I can control the temperature using a controller, giving me added stability in the layup process. I'll be the first to admit this isn't the cheapest, or maybe even wisest way to go about things, but it seems both challenging and fun. A good winter project.....
Thanks for your help
Yan0
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epoxy
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On 9/10/2008 duane
wrote in from
United States
(72.87.nnn.nnn)
The best cure will be to use the proper heat during the original cure. This does not necessarily mean higher is better, there is a "best" temperature or temperature profile for each product.
If you heat it later it may post-cure a bit but the resin is now solidified so the components do not have the mobility they had before or during the original cure - molecules can't rotate or translate as effectively as they do in liquid or semi-liquid form
In general the "slow" epoxies will give the stronger and more temperature-resistant result. fast epoxies sometimes cure uncomfortably fast, and may bubble if temps get too warm. I've come around to using slow epoxy all the time. Finish the work then put it into an "oven" of varying complexity depending upon what heat is needed. At its simplest this can be a space heater and some foam board insulation to reflect some of the heat. You pretty much need this if you are below 70F for any epoxy to get a good solid cure, especially with thin layers
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heat
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On 9/10/2008 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(67.83.nnn.nnn)
i thought it was mostly a matter of time,heat speeds epoxy. Then there' s prepreg where all the ingrediants are mixed but heat is necessary to activate. I wonder if polyepoxy works better with heat,poly epoxy supposedly has two hardening stages. I would imagine that if you waited long enough epoxy would reach maximum strength at room temperature or maybe on that one summer day where your board is gonna be in the trunk while your car parked in the sun all day. I'd hope the boards you make don't rely on the epoxy being at it's "maximum" strength from the moment you first ride them,that's a bit to critical. Long term artifical heating could dry out the wood and maybe make that part of your board too brittle.
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Heat and Epoxy
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On 9/9/2008
Yan0
wrote in from
United States
(75.68.nnn.nnn)
The more research I do, the more that it becomes apparent that Epoxy dosen't "really" fully cure unless you've heated it. Where the articles have been a little weak is on whether heating post cure is as good (or nearly so) as heating during the cure. It would be much easier to put boards in an "oven" of sorts after the cure rather than incorporate heat into the mold. Any thoughts on the difference between heat during and/or after curing? Any help would be appreciated.
Yan0
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shipping RR
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On 9/7/2008
munchh
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(86.151.nnn.nnn)
If i remember right mine took at least 3 weeks, i had mailed Ted a few times before and i'm not that pushy?
It will be worth it and if you dont like it the valve will keep your wine fresh for days...hehe
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roar rocket
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On 8/31/2008 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(71.255.nnn.nnn)
i ordered the vacuum kit and the ply's, anybody have real life experience with shipping times, they kind of leave themselves lots of flexibility on shipping, 7-30 days? kind of like it'll get there when it gets there,oh well. My leg is a bit less broken everyday,i walk a bit without crutches,they're not so necessary. I want to make rockered dh boards with a few plys of maple vertical grain balsa middles between the trucks,with carbon skins. I'm contemplating ways to bevel the balsa cores with some dust control.
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herb follow me....
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On 8/13/2008 munchh
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(86.151.nnn.nnn)
gone to vintage...
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coyote 3
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On 8/12/2008 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(67.83.nnn.nnn)
i think gt had different models in the uk,i don't remember one like that,but i didn't exactly pay that much attention to gt back then. I guess that makes two adjustable wheelbase trucks back in the day, those are not even the freeformers. I wonder if they may have been sourced from the same factory,sort of an earlier version,with a different lable on them.
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pumper
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On 8/10/2008 munchh
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(86.151.nnn.nnn)
Hey Herb, glad you liked the coyote III, i love it and so does my 4 year old, its got ACS651's and Powell bowlriders on it now.
As for the Roarokit thing ill post some picks of mine if you want?
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roarocket
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On 8/7/2008 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(71.125.nnn.nnn)
i been thinking about it for a long time,and my recent injury got me back to thinking i should get me on of them thar new fangled roar rocket kits. I was describing it to someone the other day and it occured to me how much the pump mechanism sounds like a one of those penis enlarger things,borrowed technology> perhaps i thinks so.
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plastics
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On 8/4/2008 PSR
wrote in from
United States
(75.68.nnn.nnn)
Munchh, Herbn, well, then I fit in the 'daft' category of having tried using alternative bits/parts/balls of rubber/urethane/polyethylene as truck bushings. I most certainly wasted material and time, and gained a few scabs on the elbows/knees/palms in experimenting. However, I at least now know what works and why! Best 'alternative' bits have been from car/kart/motorcyle suspension bushings, other than cutting up big Sk8board wheels (which, btw, were darned scarce only a decade ago!), and of course, digging up old Sk8board/Rollerskate bushings left unwanted at various sports shops and the like.
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pass it on
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On 8/4/2008 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(67.83.nnn.nnn)
to munchh, i wasn't asking about using super balls as bushings is kind of strange to me,(no offence) i'd be more likely to do the weirdness of chunks of neoprene or some other soft and not to bouncy material,sort of squares or rectangles that nearly fill the space in the hanger where the bushings are.
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