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| Home Made Boards (6188 Posts)
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Home Made Boards |
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No Balls
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On 8/3/2008 PSR
wrote in from
United States
(75.68.nnn.nnn)
Herbn, just take this as an 'investment of time' warning.. Don't use the 'superball' for bushings (unless your riders are under 60 lbs.), as they're typically made of two compounds, the outer being around 65A-55A, the inner being softer by 10-20 A-Shore points, so it's 'crumbly' and chunks apart under direct pressure. Re-melting and combining with other urethanes didn't get me better bushings (although I may have nice brass molds for Stim-copies in a box in my barn--or not, I dunno now), as the plastics appearently didn't bond well, and came out in a pattern remiscient of a catseye marble, that peeled apart at the slightest applied pressures.
Maybe someone with a better understanding of plastics/reference books-data/or molds could've got it right, but I shelved that idea some 16 years back.
Well, at least it would've got a D- in high school chemistry class, only by then I was 29 years old...
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holepunch
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On 8/3/2008 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(71.127.nnn.nnn)
they sell manual holepunches,not the plyers but the type you hit with a hammer or mount in an arbor press, maybe a drill press would work,you could even run the drill press at it's slowest of slow speeds. Sometimes a circular slicing action is better than tring to grind up all the material that's in the area where you want a hole.Bouncy is cool for slow to moderate speeds,for looseness and control at high speeds i'm thinking less bouncy.
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Herbn bushings
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On 8/3/2008
munchh
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(86.151.nnn.nnn)
Hey Herbn,
saw your post on the truck forum, but im thinking about bushings too.
Just been playing with my boys with 'high bounce' bouncy balls!
Not sure if im just being a bit daft, but do you know of anyone who has tried cutting bushings from them?
They feel soft but if its rebound we all seem to be after surly these are spot on?
I think im going to get the hole saw out and have a go.
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All birch?
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On 7/3/2008
munchh
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(86.151.nnn.nnn)
looks like i might have found some, but the supplier is a bit unsure of what it is, 'all birch layers' so they say 8/9 at 12mm, sounds good!!!
We shall see.
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it's worldwide
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On 6/30/2008 herbn
wrote in from
United States
(67.83.nnn.nnn)
well maybe, here in nj usa, my local source stopped carrying the good stuff too. i got a couple of sheets from my source for shop boards,little trick boards with my shops' name on it(skatewerks) well shipping to england isn't going to work for ya so i guess you're looking for someone located in england to answer your question. i did get some extra high grade birchply from a aircraft builders supply(aircraft spruce) the stuff is pretty insane looking .5 mm plys ,that's 10 plys in a quarter inch(5mm to you) havn;t made a board with that yet. I'm heavily considering the vacuum bagging system and going with the vertical grain balsa core and carbon fiber layup.
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Rant...vent....rant....
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On 6/30/2008
munchh
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(86.151.nnn.nnn)
Oh my life, now i remeber why i backed off from building decks, i've been trying to find good birch ply for weeks, you cant even buy it off the shelf anymore, the wood mongers have each sheet veneered as and when you ask for it!
So what is the constuctional layers made of......?
They arn't really sure!!!!!!
How rubbish is my country.
I'm ready to give up,
is there anyone in the UK who knows where you can get a good birch ply?
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the evolution...
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On 6/5/2008
cam
wrote in from
Australia
(220.233.nnn.nnn)
...it continues
watch this space...
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pictures
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On 5/23/2008
cam
wrote in from
Australia
(220.233.nnn.nnn)
where did all my pictures go?
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yan0
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On 5/23/2008
cam
wrote in from
Australia
(220.233.nnn.nnn)
yan0
thanks for the compliments
on all my boards i use a 1.2mm maple veneer.
On the fibreglass board it has a uni glassjob ontop, with a truiaxal and uni glassjob over the core.
On the most recent one, there is bi carbon on the outermost top and bottom skins. under that is uni carbon on each side.
I dont know the specific weight, but from memory the glass is around the 750g mark, and the bi carbon is around the 200g mark
sorry i cant be more specific
oh, on the most recent board there are no fibres on the +- 45 degree, only +-90, im hoping the torsion box gives me the torsional stiffness i need.
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Cam's Board
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On 5/19/2008
Yan0
wrote in from
United States
(64.25.nnn.nnn)
Cam
What's the layup scheme on that board? It looks like you used a thin layer of (... 3 ply?) baltic birch on the glass board and then used some sort of foam or balsa. What weight and weaves were you using? how did you orient the fibers? I.E do you have them running parallel and antiparallel to the board or did you get some +/- 45 in there as well?
Looks great, it'd be great to hear how it rides.
yan0
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fitz
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On 5/16/2008 cam
wrote in from
Australia
(220.233.nnn.nnn)
fitz, for a while there, i thought you werent on the internet anymore,
yeah thanks for the positive response
this shape is different from the no comment board, because it has a slight kick, with deeper concave, and more parallel rails
damn right about testing with fibreglass first, working with carbon is a pain in the a$$ but the results are worth it
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re: a feather
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On 5/13/2008
fitz
wrote in from
Australia
(211.31.nnn.nnn)
wow. Nice tidy job dude.
you're getting the knack of laying it all up now. compared to you first attempt (which looks way cool anyway)you seem to have it down to a craft.
The board in your "no comment"post is the same shape. is it the same board without the final carbon layer?
good idea testing out your method in glass first. way cheaper.
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Semi Homemade it is!!
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On 4/26/2008 Vintage Man
wrote in from
United States
(66.245.nnn.nnn)
Purchased this in 2003. Custom made for me 34 inch.
Its via a professional skateboard maker, but I doubt
he does that many per year. So its semi homemade and to my custom
specifications :----) Fabulous cruiser. Attached the just got this
weekend Re-Issue Bennett. Trucks are original to deck,Randel 180s
Got this as looked like old vintage surf board to me...
Want the manufacturer, just let me know.
Yes my typical stickers attached to deck(see My Quiver Vintage Page)
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Mark iv
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On 4/24/2008
Anton
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(86.15.nnn.nnn)
well after getting it wrong a few time I got what i wanted in the end, I just trying to work out how to put the picture up
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P.S
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On 4/10/2008
munchh
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(217.44.nnn.nnn)
what Abec11's have you got?
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trucks and wheels
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On 4/10/2008
munchh
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(217.44.nnn.nnn)
Hey man its the reason we are all here,
down hill Randals are great, the classics are good alround, but slow unless its the 86mm ones your talking about, Abec11 Gumballs or Big-Zigs are great proven wheels.
Let us know how you get on?
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Set up
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On 4/9/2008
Anton
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(86.15.nnn.nnn)
For the board I am testing at the moment, I am looking to get a board for good controlled downhill, just found some Randal downhill trucks on an old board, so I will put those on tomorrow. Just not sure on the wheels, as the Abec11s are ok but my son is getting pretty good speed out of his Kryptonic classic reds. All advice gratefully received. I owe you munchh cheers.
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Anton's setup
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On 4/9/2008
munchh
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(217.44.nnn.nnn)
So i asume this is for carving or down hill speed?
Those trucks and wheels, are in my opinion and its only mine, the sort of thing i would buy if i had tried everything else already!
There are loads of other proven trucks and wheels and there are new ones popping up every month, i would be interested to know if anyone uses them, its alot of money to spend on stuff that looks great!
What do you want to get from your setup?
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WB and Trucks
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On 4/9/2008 Anton
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(86.15.nnn.nnn)
Wheelbase is 80cm, trucks are randal 180s and wheels are Abec 11s but I am concidering using Grand Prix G-Force Racing Wheels and Scriber trucks
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WB and trucks
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On 4/8/2008
munchh
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(217.44.nnn.nnn)
So how long is the wheelbase and what trucks have you tried?
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Carbon boards
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On 4/8/2008
Anton
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(86.15.nnn.nnn)
Just got back from testing board mk1 great for caving an recreational riding but far too sensitive for high speed downhill, so I will keep this design for a street rider but I will go for a slightly shorter board (47”), no kicktail and need slower turning trucks, anyone got any ideas on trucks.
Crystal palace park is proving to be a good testing ground, but I've yet to find out how good their hospitals are!!!!
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flatwaves
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On 4/8/2008
munchh
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(217.44.nnn.nnn)
Rockin, i forgot to say, dont be afraid to make a deck with a flat tail, it all depends on what you are going to do with it, these 2 were built for cruisin, solid oak and aok and red pine, can be a bit heavy, so i route the underside.
Just have fun.
Slipa, thats awsome, i do like to finish stuff with nice veners.
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Munchh
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On 4/8/2008 Louis
wrote in from
United Kingdom
(194.106.nnn.nnn)
Hey munchh, just thought you might like to see my home made board seeing as youre so into board building!
I laid up the ply's myself, it has fibreglass, and the bottom is finished with ebony and zebrano veneers. The deck has a fairly deep concave at the front which shallows out to a flat tail at the back. (and yes, i realise that the back truck placement is wrong in these photos)
Slipa
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