|
|
|
| Freecarving (257 Posts)
|
| Topic |
Info |
|
found a great board
|
|
On 5/4/2007
Ronald
wrote in from
United States
(69.111.nnn.nnn)
a just wanted to drop by and say i found this great old school board. it was recently given to me as a present, my friends said it belonged to his father and it was atleast 30 years old. well all im tryn to say is i found this board and the brand name is nothing ive ever heard of,its caled fiberflex. have u guys ever heard of this brand befor??
|
|
|
|
|
wheels on sidewinder.
|
|
On 5/2/2007 SOLEH.
wrote in from
United States
(165.248.nnn.nnn)
for the guys that have sidewinders, if you guys like to mostly do really sharp carves, id take off them sector9 wheels and put on some abec 11 retro zigzags.
trust me, theyll do so much better than the other wheels.
shoots. i hoped i helped.
mahalos.
|
|
|
|
|
Drops for carvin'
|
|
On 4/24/2007 PSR
wrote in from
United States
(75.69.nnn.nnn)
Ronald, there's a few drops worth looking at; Landyatchz' Haida is way up on list, as it has flex, camber, KT, and good wheel-well cutouts; Landy's Urban Assault is still a great stick, despite the too-narrow tail and too-steep bends (not a 'drop', but a 'lowboy') that may require you to pick either careful negative wedging, or DH-stable trucks to make it 'flow'; Subsonic has a few, I'm liking the look of the Lowland drop-thru, as it can be had with glass, and more than one wood type (nice shape,too). Others to consider are ABEC 11, Kebbek (great sticks, nice concaves!), and Wefunk. There are others, too, but these are all companies I trust (well, I've seen Wefunk Slalom's be too fragile, but..), as they're geared towards fast skaters, and run by skaters.
Drops are usually for DH racing, built for stability, not carving. However, the two big issues here are concave and wheelbase. Long wheelbases make for great speed/stability/drifting. Concave helps control the turns at the limit, and adds stiffness to the deck (well, and Too much hurts MY feet, hence no LY Evo for me). Those are things to look at fairly closely in pick a board you'll be racking up downhill mileage on, as the size of turn (wheelbase) and the leverage/comfort/stiffness you'll have will decide just how well you carve over the long haul.
|
|
|
|
|
go long or go drop deck
|
|
On 4/24/2007
Ronald
wrote in from
United States
(69.110.nnn.nnn)
i was lookn around this morning on a couple of sites and ive noticed that drop decks arent common. i was wondering how can i get a hold of an outstanding drop deck or should i just go with a regular longboard. o thnx PSR and nic your guidance really helped me in my choice for trucks
|
|
|
|
|
U.N.C.L.E.
|
|
On 4/20/2007 PSR
wrote in from
United States
(75.69.nnn.nnn)
Nic, thanks for the props. I do try to put in stuff that's useful, I guess because I'm a coach, and 'cause back-in-the-day, Vermont was damn far away from the skate scene, kinda lonely even, but not a place where you could ask stuff like how to best adjust your trucks or even find a good skatespot to sesh at. Info like that was richer than Gold. So, I pass on what I know. This is free, whereas my Snowboard Coaching rates are $50/Hr or more. Why would I do the posting info for free? Because I was once one of those epicurious souls wanting to better my skating, but I had few people around I could ask. Here, I can ask, and get pretty profound answers. Here, I can also pass on more than 3 decades of skateboarding 'stuff' I've discovered, and that might help out the next generation of skaters.
Skateboarding is one of mankind's most individualistic and freeform types of physical motion art and expressionism. It deserves better than to be 'outlawed' by bureaucrats, and should be allowed the freedom to morph itself without the hierachy of static sports rules.
Hmm, maybe I'm a Professor of The Arts after all?! :-D
|
|
|
|
|
PSR
|
|
On 4/20/2007 nic
wrote in from
United States
(65.44.nnn.nnn)
thats cool. i always see you giving advice on many topics, so your kinda like the ncdsa dad or uncle that always gives good advice
|
|
|
|
|
everywhere?
|
|
On 4/19/2007 PSR
wrote in from
United States
(208.5.nnn.nnn)
NO Nic, just in those spots I'm concerned with.
Freecarving is one of my personal faves, and Adam probably had my diatribes in mind when this became it's own 'topic'.
I've been chatting it up here on NCDSA for 9+ years. In that time, i've made a few hundred new, friendly accquaintanes, and more than a few friends as well, plus my skating has improved!
A website like this is a great thing. The ideas and advice, plus just the entertainment value of the "crashing" section make this the place I try to get to on my lunch breaks...
I just wish I typed with both hands... ;-)
|
|
|
|
|
dang PSR
|
|
On 4/18/2007 nic
wrote in from
United States
(65.44.nnn.nnn)
man your every where on ncdsa!!!! do you post on every section?
|
|
|
|
|
Truckin'
|
|
On 4/18/2007 PSR
wrote in from
United States
(208.5.nnn.nnn)
Ronald, Randals are great, especially if price is an issue. They have small problems, such as the washers on the kingpin being cheap, and the bushings aren't the greatest, but those are easily replaced. Gullwing, Holey and a few others are offering similar trucks using the kingpin/pivot angles that Randal pioneered. Trucks like Revenge are 'torsion' type, and tend towards being more manuverable, having a looser surfy feel. But these, such as Exate, Baku, and revenge always have had bushing wear and replacement issues, plus none have had the ability to really 'bomb' hills at fairly high speeds without feeling unstable.If you're looking for quck response and great 'pumping' energy, look also at Seismic. These though take a little getting used to, as the springs return to center like nothing else on the market, and thus can be awkward if you slide to control your speed.
So, no truck is perfect, but at least with Randals, you can 'upgrade' them with common parts, usually for less than $10 extra per pair.
|
|
|
|
|
the best trucks
|
|
On 4/18/2007 nic
wrote in from
United States
(65.44.nnn.nnn)
get the randals there a great carving truck and if you tighten them a bit they can bomb any hill with confidence. get the 180s if you have some thing longer than 38 inches. and the 150s for any thing smaller
|
|
|
|
|
which is better or tell me something better
|
|
On 4/16/2007
ronald
wrote in from
United States
(69.110.nnn.nnn)
hey do u think i can get ome help , well my names ronald an im sort of new to the world of longboarding . well ok my question is what trucks do u guys think are the best? my close buddy told me that the revenges are the way to go but my brother told me randalls are cheap and the best so far , can u guys shead some light on this for me thnx
|
|
|
|
|
My new home!
|
|
On 4/12/2007 Jimmy Flindt
wrote in from
United States
(75.16.nnn.nnn)
This is my new home, FREECARVING! hell yah. I am anti-RACING SKATEBOARDS from now on. I want back the feeling I had before I knew there was EDI. I never went 20 feet before turning and that is what it is all about for me, FREECARVING!
|
|
|
|
|
on snow
|
|
On 4/10/2007 PSR
wrote in from
United States
(75.69.nnn.nnn)
This is a snippet of CMC and myself (a few friends as well) at Stratton a few years back. I'm the one on the 182cm that carves switch for a bit.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5tFfG_qbdPo
This is why I try to keep my carving skills sharp in the summer! ;-D
|
|
|
|
|
zach b
|
|
On 3/23/2007 nic
wrote in from
United States
(65.44.nnn.nnn)
dont use those sidewinders for slalom. its a dumb idea and there too wide so but some trackers or if you got money splitfires
|
|
|
|
|
Sidewinders
|
|
On 3/19/2007
Zach B
wrote in from
United States
(67.176.nnn.nnn)
hey, i have a set of sidewinder trucks, they are sick, but are they okay for tight slolam racing? if you go too fast on those trucks they wobble badly.
|
|
|
|
|
Sidewinders
|
|
On 3/15/2007 HD
wrote in from
Japan
(221.170.nnn.nnn)
I am looking for Sidewinder trucks to buy on the net. Does anybody know where I can buy on the net?
|
|
|
|
|
sidewinder bushings
|
|
On 1/19/2007 David
wrote in from
United States
(24.113.nnn.nnn)
thanks for the advice ya'll , i turned some bushing of my own, and wow are they crazy... took some industrial urathane chunks and went at it... not pretty, but they do the job like nothing else. thanks for the advice on how to do this PSR.
|
|
|
|
|
Sidewinders and speed
|
|
On 1/19/2007
A.Williams
wrote in from
Dominican Republic
(200.88.nnn.nnn)
David,
One extra trick for getting more stability from a Sidewinder is to add an extra 1" bushing washer to the top bushing of the sidewinder insert. You install this 1" washer ON TOP of the small stock washer. The large bushing is intended only to act as a CLAMP, and not to retain the bushing. As the Sidewinder insert is tightened farther and farther, according to the speed you want to ride, the effect of the insert, which gives the Sidewinder it's EXTRA turning capabilities, is reduced. The extra washer, in a very tightend state, actually contacts both sides of the insert, clamping and significantly reducing the inserts movement.
If you really need even more stability...throw another 1" washer on the upper bushing of the hanger, likewise, on top of the stock smaller bushing washer. This should give you maximum stability. One note: some bushing washers are thicker than others, so choose the strongest and thickest you can find! If the washers are too weak they'll be deformed easily and won't function as well.
|
|
|
|
|
Sidewinder bushings[?]
|
|
On 1/10/2007 PSR
wrote in from
United States
(75.68.nnn.nnn)
David, check out Khiro's bushing kits, as they're set up to let slalom racers 'pick+choose' from what's in the pack.
I don't think Radikals will fit the lower base without being 'spun down' to fit (like the step on a Stimulator), but that's easy to do; just put a knurled kingpin into your drill-chuck with the bushing near the bolt head, and another, conical buashing slipped on [to snug against the drill chuck],tighten with the bushings snugged up to the chuck jaws, and spin on a low speed while putting a bastard file to the bushing you want to shape. It takes maybe 5-7 minutes to turn a Radikal into an oversized conical, or less to make it a psuedo-stimulator. These could be very interesting on Sidewinder..
|
|
|
|
|
Sidewinders
|
|
On 1/10/2007 David
wrote in from
United States
(24.113.nnn.nnn)
thats exactly what they are... the sidewinders. i tossed a pair of stiff rubbers on the bottom set on the front, and hards on the top. semi stiffs on the back top and left the stock mediums on the bottom... the front is rather tight with a slim wedge on the right side (levels the board for how i ride when carving) i have had it up to about 25 with limited wobble... i have had a chance to ride the set up now and i dont think pushing it past 35 would be the best idea. none the less very responsive and fun to ride. the bushings are still trial and error... anyone that has a decent idea of a good set up would be awesome, im about 6'2 245 so heavy bushings are in order...
|
|
|
|
|
Gullwing
|
|
On 1/6/2007 PSR
wrote in from
United States
(75.68.nnn.nnn)
David, are you talking about the Sidewinder truck? I didn't know they could be set-up to be 'stable'...
|
|
|
|
|
Why Looser trucks
|
|
On 1/6/2007 PSR
wrote in from
United States
(75.68.nnn.nnn)
Ratking, it's a matter of preferrence, really, and your terrain or style inspirations will dictate how 'loose' loose is.
Some basic conceptual guidelines; Looser up front will be better at speeds beyond that which you can Run (though the faster you go, the more resistance you'll likely want, just to avoid the Wobbles). This also is the turning style you'll see from Slalom racers.
Looser at the rear will be more 'surfy' in feel, and works well on flatter terrain, as well as for moves like Hanging Ten or 'walking' the board.
Having both about equal is good in Urban areas or for steeper places where slides are needed for speed control.
For my, ahem, "style", I use a stiffer rear truck, and alter it's turn rate by wedging the riser so that the thick end is towards the rear. This makes the rear wheels take a wider line than the front, and slightly stiffer tension adds to the stability. Up front, I'll use a wedge, this time thin end towards the nose, which gives that truck a tighter turn arc, and I'll often run softer bushings as well, to improve the turn-in response. These set-up changes are to help re-create the turning dynamics I used Snowboarding. Granted, in Surfing or Snowboarding, I can get WAY far further up on the rail/edge as compared to the tilt of a skateboard, but the turns 'feel' pretty close to what I get while in/on H2O.
|
|
|
|
|
exate, randal...
|
|
On 1/6/2007 David
wrote in from
United States
(24.113.nnn.nnn)
its been awhile since i have had time to check back... thanks for the advice on the randals, with a little fine tunning they are amazing now. i also got a new pair of gullwings for christmas, however iv'e yet to find the name of the truck. they have a double king pin system that with some rubber stiff bushings carv like a torsion truck but handle the speed of a 150 with only an extra quarter inch in added ride height. if you can find them, buy them. i also have a pair of exkates trucks supposedly in the mail.. after three weeks they still have yet to leave their werehouse.
|
|
|
|
|
Loosen front/rear trucks
|
|
On 1/6/2007 ratking
wrote in from
Australia
(202.76.nnn.nnn)
Thanks for your reply and the good advice! i ended up getting a pretty bargain 40" one but it doesn't seem to have any brand names on it at all! Let's just say it's 'good for beginners'. I had my first ride and it was really fun, loosened up the trucks a bit. Is it better to have looser front trucks or visa versa?
|
|
|
|
|
Ratking
|
|
On 1/5/2007 PSR
wrote in from
United States
(75.68.nnn.nnn)
That 'upward flex' you're talking about is "camber", or an arch in the deck that, if properly weighted, becomes flattened, and also is a 'leaf spring' that will provide thrust thru a turn when 'unweighted'. A board with this needs to flex in response to the rider's Strength + Weight, and flex only so far. Decks like 'Flexdecks' tends towards being too soft, and thus feel "mushy" to aggresive carvers. Boards that are too stiff, say a 'Loaded' that rated for a heavy rider, would probably Not Flex, or when it did, it would Bounce, and buck You OFF. So, in looking at Camber, understand that you want only a little, but at stiffness that fits your weight, and the aggressiveness of your riding style. Since you also slide, I'd go a little stiffer than your 55kg, and I'd look for concave, wheel wells, and pick the width that's above 22cm. Skinny , non-concave boards with Camber are good for Slalom, not Slides. Please, look carefully at a Comet Scramjet, Sector Nine Trilam, or Loaded Fish, as these all have camber, but also are built to not overflex. BTW, Rockered boards also Flex, thus are much like Cambered boards, but with a smoother feel to the flex, and lower center-of-gravity, thus are Sweet for Slides, but yet will still Pump a turn. Add Barfoot to the 'look-see' list...
|
|
|
|
|
